The Making of Chikankari: Behind the Scenes of Hand Embroidery

(Picture Reference: V&A Museum archives)

Chikankari, the timeless art of hand embroidery, is a legacy woven into the cultural fabric of India. This exquisite craft, originating from the city of Nawabs, Lucknow, is known for its delicate and intricate threadwork. But have you ever wondered what goes into the making of Chikankari? Let’s take you behind the scenes and explore the journey of hand-embroidered Chikankari, from fabric selection to the skilled hands that bring it to life.

Fabric Selection: The Foundation of Elegance

The Chikankari making process begins with selecting the perfect fabric. Traditionally, artisans of Lucknow preferred fine muslin, but today, Chikankari is embroidered on a variety of fabrics like cotton, georgette, chiffon, silk, and organza. The choice of fabric plays a crucial role in determining the finesse and fluidity of the embroidery. The softer and more breathable the fabric, the more elegant the final design appears.

Designing: The Blueprint of Artistry

Once the fabric is chosen, the design is meticulously stencilled onto it using washable dyes. This process, called block printing, serves as a guide for the artisans. The motifs in hand-embroidered Chikankari are often inspired by nature, featuring floral patterns, paisleys, and vine designs. The elegance of these patterns is what makes each piece a work of art.

Stitching Techniques: A Legacy of Skill

Chikankari embroidery is known for its diverse stitching techniques, each requiring precision and mastery. Some of the most popular stitches include:

Tepchi Work Fabric (Image: http://www.lucknowchikan.in)

• Tepchi (Running stitch): A basic stitch forming the foundation of many designs.
• Bakhiya (Shadow work): Done on the reverse side of the fabric to create a delicate shadow effect.
• Phanda and Murri (Knotted stitches): Used for floral and grain-like patterns, adding dimension to the embroidery.
• Jaali work: A mesh-like effect achieved without cutting the fabric, showcasing the high level of skill involved.

These intricate stitches come together to create breathtakingly beautiful patterns, ensuring that every piece of Chikankari is unique.

The Role of Artisans: Heart and Soul of Chikankari

The artisans of Lucknow are the true custodians of this craft. Many of them have inherited this skill from their ancestors, dedicating their lives to perfecting the art of hand-embroidered Chikankari. Each artisan spends hours, sometimes days, embroidering a single piece, ensuring every stitch reflects their dedication and expertise.

Despite the changing times, these artisans continue to uphold the traditions of Chikankari, blending classic techniques with contemporary designs. Their unwavering commitment to preserving this heritage makes every Chikankari creation a symbol of patience, passion, and perseverance.

Washing and Finishing: The Final Touch

Once the embroidery is complete, the fabric undergoes a thorough washing process to remove the dye marks and ensure a clean, finished look. The garment is then ironed and checked for quality before making its way to the market, where it awaits an admirer who appreciates its artistry.

Chikankari: More Than Just Embroidery

The making of Chikankari is not just about embroidery; it is about storytelling, heritage, and the hands that craft each piece with love. It embodies the essence of slow fashion and sustainable craftsmanship, making it an ethical choice for those who value tradition and artistry.

With every hand-embroidered Chikankari piece, you own not just a garment but a part of history—woven with the threads of passion and skill by the artisans of Lucknow.

So, the next time you drape yourself in this exquisite embroidery, remember the craftsmanship, dedication, and cultural heritage that went into creating it. Support the artisans, cherish the artistry, and celebrate the beauty of Chikankari.