Real vs Fake Chikankari: Spot the Difference

Spot the Difference Before You Buy

Chikankari embroidery is one of India’s most elegant and intricate hand embroidery traditions, originating in the city of Lucknow. But with its rising popularity in modern fashion, the market today is flooded with both authentic hand-embroidered chikankari and machine-made imitations.

If you’re wondering how to tell the difference between real hand chikankari and mass-produced embroidery, this guide will help you spot the signs of authenticity and ensure you invest in timeless, handcrafted beauty.

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✅ What is Authentic Hand-Embroidered Chikankari?

Authentic chikankari is a form of hand embroidery done using a needle and thread to create motifs featuring over 30+ unique stitches like bakhiya(shadow-work), phanda(knots), jaali(lattice-work), and murri(satin-stitch). It’s delicate, time-intensive, and traditionally crafted by skilled artisans across Lucknow and its surrounding villages.

Since each hand is different, each piece is unique. It may take several weeks or even months, to complete a chikankari garment. No two pieces are exactly alike — and that’s the charm of handmade chikankari.

🚫 What is Machine Chikankari?

Machine chikankari, often referred to as “computer embroidery” or “shadow work replicas,” is done quickly using automated embroidery machines. These pieces often imitate chikankari designs but lack the texture, depth, and finesse of hand embroidery.

Machine work is commonly found on mass-market kurtas and dress materials labeled as "chikan style" or "lakhnavi" rather than true chikankari.

🔍 How to Spot the Difference: Hand vs Machine Chikankari

1. Irregularities are Beautiful

• Hand embroidery has slight irregularities — in spacing, size of the stitch, thread tension and asymmetry across motifs— proving it's made by hand.

• Machine embroidery is too perfect, with uniformity in every stitch.

2. Reverse Side of the Fabric

• Flip the fabric! The back of hand chikankari will show knots and threads that begin and end in different places, because the artisan ran out of thread at uneven intervals. There will also be a few random crisscrossing of threads between motifs further interrupting the homogeny. 

• Machine embroidery will have neatly trimmed backs and consistent looping, often bonded by adhesive. In most cases it will look almost same on the front as on the back. 

3. Feel the Texture

• Real chikankari has a soft, raised texture from the thread and the unique way each stitch catches light.

• Machine work often feels flat and rigid, with synthetic thread that doesn’t blend naturally into cotton or georgette.

4. Type of Fabric

• Traditional chikankari is done on muslin, mulmul, cotton, georgette, or chanderi – breathable, hand-friendly fabrics. Fun Fact: the fabric needs to fall within 50-70gsm for the needle to pass through and embroider intricate patterns. Any thicker and details tend to get lost losing chikankari's delicateness. 

• Machine embroidery is often found on shiny synthetic materials or stiff cotton blends, since its mass produced to lower costs and churn out more quantities compromising on the Luxe-feel.

5. Jaali Work Test

Pic Credits: @desidrapes

• Jaali (Lattice-work) is a stitch technique that creates a mesh-like windowpane design within the fabric by pulling the warps and wefts of the fabric apart and knotting them to create tiny holes— impossible to recreate by machine. If you spot real jaali, it’s 100% hand embroidery.

• In Machine made embroidery jaali work is often replaced with applique of net/ perforated fabric underneath the main fabric, to give the illusion of Jaali work. 

💡 Pro Tip: Ask These Questions Before Buying Chikankari

Next time you're on the lookout for that perfect Chikankari outfit for a shaadi, or your BFF's haldi-mehendi, and hitting up top designer outlets, be sure to ask these questions to get your money's worth!

• What fabric is it, synthetic or natural? Pssss... Natural fabrics wont always break the bank.

• Is it handcrafted or machine-made?

• Where was it made — is it from Lucknow or nearby artisan clusters?

• Does the brand share artisan stories or show their process?

• Can you spot real chikankari stitches like pechni, murri or jaali?

🧵 Why Choosing Authentic Chikankari Matters

Buying real hand-embroidered chikankari helps:

• Preserve this traditional craft form

• Support rural artisans, mostly women, who earn their livelihoods from embroidery

• Promote slow fashion and sustainable clothing choices

At KRI Chikankari, every piece is handcrafted by skilled artisans using time-honored techniques passed down through generations. We’re proud to support artisan livelihoods and promote ethical fashion with a purpose.

📌 Still Not Sure? Let Us Help You Choose Authentic Chikankari

Browse our KRI Chikankari collection on www.krichikankari.com or reach out for help picking a piece that’s 100% authentic and handmade with love.